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Finally the highway bottoms out at Death Valley itself and I turn off to visit the ranger station at Furnace Creek. Here ranger Charlie Callagan reluctantly issues me a permit, with requisite warnings about the heat. "We pulled a body off the Basin just last week. Died within sight of his vehicle, doing what you're doing." Back outside I take account of my predicament: sure enough - I'm at the Lowest, Hottest, Driest place in the Western Hemisphere. Thought so.

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